I surf, a lot. Surfing is amazing. The ocean can be less so. The ocean is cold but comforting, unforgiving but trustworthy, dangerous but beautiful, and respectable above all else.
Surfing is a crazy sport, with expenses, dangers, and moments of all kind. The best moments are when the ocean sits in a rhythmic pulse and little to no wind. The moment you just sit and realize how amazing and blessed you and everything else around you is.
Another golden moment in surfing is when you catch a wave and mid-wave you have a sence of power and invincibility that remains with you even after the wave is over. Time seems to stand still as you surf down the face of the wave and you can feel your heart beat pulse for pulse. With the adrenalin pumping and the body racing, there are only a handful of activities that can deliver a sence similar to surfing.
My favorite place to surf, by far, is Huntington Beach Pier. Home to the most consistent waves, I can practice and have fun in one of the most friendly environments. surfing, in a way, is humbling. You get to travel to different surf spots, meet hundreds of new people, hear amazing stories of someone’s past, their present, and sometimes just stories. moments like what I’ve described are shared among the surfing community and complete strangers can bond over these feelings.
Surfing puts people in another state of mind that you usually don’t want to get out of. The way you feel while surfing is the same everyone else feels while surfing. This little thing, this unseen and unspoken thing, creates a bridge and a bond to everyone out in the water that day, all the days before, all the days to come, and every location around the world. Surfing is the most amazing sport to me, and no matter your style, a surfer is a surfer. We will be friends.