Powerful or powerless? who wouldn’t want to be powerful? Who would want to be powerless? It’s an interesting concept, power. But, you don’t always control where power falls. Sometimes you do, though. Over the summer of 2014, a lifeguard died on duty while trying to save someone on a very large day of surf. I went out to surf that same day.
The waves were touching the bottom of the Huntington Beach Pier, where I surf, and I was scared. I paddled out and got to where the waves were breaking with my two good friends Long and David. Needless to say, we were extremely uncomfortable out in conditions like these. We didn’t know until later that a life guard had died, but we did know the danger we were putting ourselves into. One wipe out could kill us from either hitting the bottom of the wave the wrong way, getting smashed by the wave as it crashed on top of us, or even just being held down under water for too long from large riptides. We all felt powerless. It’s a scary scenario to go into such a place. The danger was there, and we were a little unprepared. We had stretched and all, but we didn’t have the faith in our ability to surf such a dangerous wave. But who would have faith when being thrown into a deadly situation like that. One screw up and we would be gone.
The waves were a little bigger than this wave here. It’s a scary idea going out into the ocean like that, but it’s even scarying when you’re out there and you’re about to drop into the 20 foot waves.
Just last week, the waves were big. not as big as that day in the summer, but still big. I went out with the same friends. We surfed it. We had our boards and our courage and we did it! It was an awesome feeling going down the big face of a wave and thinking of how much we had progressed.
Dropping in on a big wave is no problem now!